In January 2003 Allura and I had the opportunity to meet with Andrew Gray( for the first time), one of the new owners of the Bruichladdich (Brook-laddie) distillery to talk about the philosophy and changes they have implemented at the 123 year old distillery and of course, to sample some of his wares, in tow with him were our two local distributors. Although we had previously enjoyed the 10, 15 and 21 year olds from the distillery it was great to talk about the differences in the whisky, the history of the distillery and the new history the distillery is creating. The new stewardship has already earned many awards and accolades including the distinction of being named; Distillery of the Year 2001-02, by The Malt Advocate as well as Distiller of the year 2002, by Whisky Magazine. It is always great to sit and talk passionately over a dram with people in the industry.
Bruichladdich is located on the Atlantic side of Islay on the edge of Loch Indaal and is privately owned and operated. This is the most Westerly distillery in Scotland. Originally constructed in 1881, and with the exception of closures during the war years (1929 – 1936 and 1939 – 1945) it ran continuously until it was closed in 1994 by Jim Beam Brands, having just bought the current owners Whyte & MacKay, whom themselves had just bought the distillery from Invergordon the previous year.
The stills remained silent until the spirit flowed again on May 29th 2001, after being acquired in December of 2000, by the Scottish bottlers; Murray McDavid. The new proprietors have chosen to conduct all production on Islay. Three whiskies are made at Bruichladdich: the lightly peated traditional Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte a more heavily peated whisky and Octomore from what is reputed as the world’s heaviest peated barley, all distilled in Islay’s tallest stills by Master Distiller, Jim McEwan. Jim previously spent 35 years on the Island with Bowmore and has the distinction of being thrice named Distiller of the year. I have a rare 22 year old Bowmore bottling in a ceramic bottle that was produced by Jim way back then. The “laddie” is produced using much of the original Victorian machinery dating back to 1881. This is the only production house on Islay to mature all of their whisky on the island, allowing the elements of the Atlantic coast to permeate and season the whisky as it sleeps silently in a warehouse by the sea. As of the fall of 2002, Bruichladdich has the only bottling line on Islay and is only one of three in all of Scotland to bottle there own. The water used in production derives from a loch in the hills behind the distillery, whereas the water source for bottling rises up through some of the oldest rocks in Scotland. By using the soft Islay water in distilling and when bringing down the cask strength to a palatable 46% alcohol level, has created a very soft mouth-feel in all of their bottlings. They do not add caramel nor do they chill-filter their amber liquids. If one was to add a wee bit of ice to ones dram, and you were to see a wee bit of cloudiness so be it, at least you’re getting your protein and enjoying an unadulterated handcrafted nectar, produced by a small passionate group of men and woman that apparently don’t even use a computer in the process.
All of the whiskies sampled were distilled by the previous distillery operators, although only the 21 year old was bottled by them. The 21 year old is very different, in that it was not bottled on Islay but in Edinburgh where the water added to bring the alcohol down to 43% is not from a fresh spring but from an industry-laden source with caramel also being added. The 21 year old was chill-filtered taking out the proteins and fats, thus allowing the whisky to remain unclouded with the introduction of ice.
The first edition bottlings; the 10, 15 and 20 year old are designed to stand-alone and be somewhat different in subsequent bottlings. To achieve this Jim McEwan hand picks each cask and grades them as “Very Good”, “Good” and “Crap”. The “Very Good” casks contain whisky that is ready, or near ready for bottling. The “Good” casks may just need more time and are relocated in the warehouse to be further matured. The “Crap” casks may just be over used or leaking barrels, these are drained and placed in newer or better casks and left to age. The information given to us in the liner notes denoted the type of casks used and the percentage of each, very similar to the grape varietal listing on a fine bottle of wine. Some of the types of casks used at the distillery are American Oak, Sherry, Oloroso Sherry and Bourbon. When the First Edition 20 year old bottling was released it was very well received, so much so that it became in short supply and the stocks have since disappeared and it is now unavailable in both Scotland and England. Upon hearing that there were six or so bottles of the 20 year old left in our local distribution system and that they were close to being the last in the world, we headed out right away and purchased two bottles. There will not be a Second edition 20 year old bottling for about two more years and it will differ from the present one, although they will be marketing a 17 year old shortly. It is nice to know that the changes in the whisky will come about naturally as the stocks change over the years, many distilleries are so corporately driven that they feel it is imperative that today’s dram tastes the same as last years or even one from a decade ago.
As a total surprise and real treat Andrew brought along a Bruichladdich 1970 vintage, aged 31 years, I must say that this is the softest smoothest whisky I have ever had the privilege to enjoy; even Allura pledged this is the finest she has ever tasted. I enjoyed it so much that I nosed it for most of our meeting, savoring it in my mouth - hopping that Andrew would forget to pick up the bottle on his way out. After they left, and yes, he did take the bottle with him, I started writing and enjoying what was left of my dram. Shortly there after I was informed that we had to leave for another meeting, I covered my glass with plastic wrap and hid it on a shelf behind the bar with a strict warning to the girls working that this glass was not to be touched. As we left they were both very insistent that I tell them of the contents of the glass but there was no way I was going to let on that it contained one of the finest whiskies I have ever sampled. This bottling will cost a pretty penny and may become available to us in our area in the near future, man do I ever hope so!
I must say that it was a real pleasure to sit, talk, learn and enjoy a dram with someone who truly cares about the products that he and his partners are providing for the whisky world and of course for those of us that truly are enjoying the fruits of their labours.
Now I have before me four tasting glasses the 10, 15 and 20 year olds and the vintage 1970 that I have saved and must now nose, savor and write the tasting notes that are to follow. God, I hate my job!
